MAME Cabinet Web Site

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Left Side. This also shows the truest color of the cabinet. It is Dutch Boy, Dyed Denim, High Gloss, Acrylic Enamel.
Front without Keyboard Drawer, Monitor Bezel or Bottom Panel.
Light for illuminating the Marquee I don't have yet. It comes on automatically with the PC. It should shine above the speakers, not leaving any dark spots in the Marquee.
Close-up of the Alpine Flagship Speakers (Grills only - the speakers are OE from my Toyota Truck)
The Speakers again....
Speaker installation and wiring from the front.
Speaker and light mounting, viewed from the rear.
Front Top. The monitor is an HP 21", company discard. It's six (6) years old and a little soft, but PERFECT for MAME gaming.
Front middle, showing the mounting dowel for the control panel, and the hole for cables to the control panel.
Front Bottom showing the rails for the keyboard drawer, the PC Volume Control, and the Power Supply's for the AMP/Head Unit & PC.
Computer volume control. This is just inside the keyboard drawer. Note the "custom" bracket for the volume control knob. There are also custom brackets for the Light Bulbs, Power Supplys, the Amplifier and the Head Unit. The Light Bulbs generate some heat, and had to be kept away from the side of the cabinet.
Right power supply for the Toyota OE Amp and Head unit, that is driving the speakers. The two (2) 12v automotive light bulbs are connected to a 5v line on the power supply. This is required to get 12v out of the power supply. This comes on automatically when the PC is powered on. I had to jumper the motherboard cable between Power on (Green wire) and ground, to make the power supply run. You can see the red jumper wire in the center of the picture, below the light bulbs. The PC Sound & Head unit (Radio/CD/Cassette) are both useable at the same time.
This is the PC power supply, and Hard Drive. The HD is an old 20GB. All games/ROMS are on a network attached server. This power supply powers the PC and the coin-door lights. Both power supplies and the Hard Drive are mounted with rubber grommets, to reduce noise & vibration. You can also see one of two, notched 2x3's, that the front panel locks into.
This is the inside view of the two (2) key switches on the rear of the cabinet. The top key switch turns the motherboard on. The bottom key switch is the reset button. Both key switches are momentary contact switches.
Close-up of the key-switches from the back side. Top switch is for power. Bottom switch is for reset.
Rear center opening, showing Monitor and cable routing to the bottom of the cabinet.
Back bottom of the cabinet. The 1" slot is for ventilation of the bottom of the cabinet. Both power supplies have their fans pointed at this slot. The hole in the bottom is for power and network cables.
This is the lower section of the cabinet, without the shelf. All the power cables reside here, plugged into a "Smart" power strip. From left to right, the cables are: AMP/Head Unit, Monitor, PC, Marquee Light (Back), Wireless Mouse Cradle Power/Charger & USB Hub for the Control Panel.
This "Smart" outlet strip is from BITS Limited. The Red outlets are on all the time (wireless mouse cradle/charge). The Blue outlet switches on/off all the other outles. When the item (PC) plugged into the Blue outlet is turned on, the other non-Red outlets turn on. When the item (PC) plugged into the Blue outlet is turned off, all the other outlets turn off (Marquee Light, AMP/Head Unit, USB Hub, Monitor). It's pretty cool!
The speaker and AMP wiring. All wiring in the cabinet is connected with quick disconnects, for easy removal/replacement. I opened up the AMP and wired an 1/8" Stereo jack to the line-level inputs. This gets the PC sound into the amplifier, along with the head unit. The PC volume control is in-line between the AMP and the 1/8" Stereo jack.
This is the lower cabinet with the PC shelf in place, and the power cables through the hole in the rear.
All the power cables are kept nice and neat, out of the way, below the shelf.
This is the PC. It is a motherboard tray from an old full tower Acer case. Note the Power LED & HD LED. These are just laying inside the lower cabinet. I'm not sure if I'm going to make them visible from the outside.
The PC has the following cards: GeForce 3 Ti200, Intel Pro/100 NIC & Soundblaster Live. Note the quick disconnect on the right side. I had a terrible ground loop, with different power supplies for the PC & AMP. I could hear the screen being drawn, the mouse move & HD access. It was really strange. This wire is attached to the screw holding the sound card in, and attaches to the ground going to the AMP. It eliminated my noise problem.
The Motherboard is an old Tyan. It has a P4 1.7Ghz, with 256k Cache. It has 256MB of PC133 memory.
Here's the PC "installed". The tray and CD-ROM are just laying on the shelf. The ground wire is attached to the AMP ground. The power connector in front of the motherboard is for the coin slot lights. The cable from the AMP to the Head Unit is hanging on the right, along with a ground wire for the Head Unit.
All the cables are connected to the PC except the Network cable. I forgot to put it in place before taking this picture. There is the keyboard cable, the wireless mouse USB cable, the monitor cable, the USB Controller cable & the sound cable.
One more close-up of the cables.
Here's the AMP to Head Unit cable & ground wire.
This is the bottom front panel. It houses the Head Unit from my Toyota Truck and the coin door. The panel is held in place with 3/4" Quarter Round at the bottom of the cabinet and two (2) cam locks.